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Breaking

Breaking-When a wave passes from deep water to shallow water it steepens as the wave energy is forced upward. We call this "shoaling". With increasing steepness, the wave face finally becomes too unstable and the crest or top part of the wave tumbles or "breaks" down the face of the wave.

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  • Part of Speech: noun
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  • Industry/Domain: Sports
  • Category: Surfing
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