Surfing

Surfing

Surfing is a water sport and recreational activity in which the wave rider, rides the forward face of a wave usually towards the shore. While most suitable waves for surfing are found in the ocean the activity can also be performed on lakes. The wave rider balances on a surf board while riding the waves.

Industry: Sports

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Surfing

Swell height

Sports; Surfing

The average height of the highest one-third of the swells with swell period energies over 11 seconds. Shorter period wind wave energy with periods under 11 seconds is excluded.

Significant wave height

Sports; Surfing

The average height of the highest 1/3 of all the waves at a given location like a buoy. Practically all wave model charts show significant wave heights. The intent is to provide an accurate ...

Swell shadow

Sports; Surfing

The area behind islands, points of land, or other obstacles where the swell and waves have been blocked by those obstacles. The swell shadow will change with different swell directions.

Surf zone

Sports; Surfing

The area along the coast where there are breaking waves and lines of whitewater moving shoreward toward shallower water and the shore. May also include an offshore deepwater reef where there are ...

Atmospheric pressure

Sports; Surfing

The air pressure or force exerted on the Earth's surface caused by the weight of the air above, usually between 950 - 1050 millibars at sea level. Air pressure is also measured to indicate the ...

Backing off

Sports; Surfing

The action of a wave as it passes from shallow water into deeper water closer to shore. The wave becomes less steep, or the broken whitewater fades away. Tends to occur shoreward of offshore reefs or ...

Tandem surfing

Sports; Surfing

The act of two people surfing together on a single board. Tandem riding was born at Waikiki. Over the years, it has evolved from a man and a woman standing together on a single board to a series of ...