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Surfing

Surfing is a water sport and recreational activity in which the wave rider, rides the forward face of a wave usually towards the shore. While most suitable waves for surfing are found in the ocean the activity can also be performed on lakes. The wave rider balances on a surf board while riding the waves.

Contributors in Surfing

Surfing

Great circle

Sports; Surfing

The shortest distance between two points on a curved or spherical surface like the Earth, which is actually a curved line when projected on a flat surface like on a Mercator chart. These lines are ...

Overall height and period

Sports; Surfing

The significant wave height and dominant wave period that is traditionally reported from the offshore buoys. Significant wave height is the average height of the highest one-third of the waves. When ...

Secondary swell

Sports; Surfing

The second dominant swell at a specific location like a buoy.

Surfology

Sports; Surfing

The science of surfing, surf forecasting, and the surfing lifestyle.

Surf beat

Sports; Surfing

The rhythm of periodic rise and fall in coastal water levels caused by sets of waves as they arrive and create a surge and pileup of water along the surf zone. During and immediately after the sets ...

Wave steepness

Sports; Surfing

The ratio of the wave height to the wavelength. A term used by the National Data Buoy centre (NDBC) to describe the dominant sea state at a buoy. For a given wave height, steep waves represent a more ...

Foil

Sports; Surfing

1) The rate of change of thickness from nose to tail of a surfboard. 2) The rate of change of thickness of a surfboard fin from its front to its back edge.

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