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Refraction
A) The bending or turning of the wave crests toward shallow water. When a wave drags its bottom over an uneven ocean floor, the portion of the wave dragging over shallower water slows down while the portion wave passing over deeper water maintains its speed. The part of the wave over deeper water begins to wrap or bend in toward the shallower water-much the same as how waves wrap and bend around a point like Rincon or Malibu. Deep-water canyons can also greatly increase the size of waves as the portion of the swell moving faster over deep water bends in and converges with the portion of the swell over shallower water. B) Also the bending or turning of wave crests by currents.
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